Sunday, March 13, 2011

I went to Amsterdam and Prague over Spring Break.  Coming off the Istanbul trip, I knew that these cities would seem extra different. 

Amsterdam is a very progressive city.  The first thing I noticed was its excellent transportation system.  Metro, trams, buses, and trains combine to make one of the most impressive public transportation infrastructures I have ever seen.  The city is so easy to move around in.  Bicyclists are everywhere.  There are bike lanes on every road.  In some instances there were actually separate roads and bridges for bikes.  It was amazing.  The first day we rented bikes and went riding around the modern section of the city near the IJ tower block by Neutelings Riedijk.  The pure simplicity of contemporary architecture there was a welcome change from the temple fronts of Rome.  The housing in the Eastern harbor of Amsterdam was great.  Each complex had its own unique view of the canals and its own well-designed green space.  Back toward the city center, the canals radiate around Centraal station.  The place had such a nice feel to it.  The apartments leaning suspiciously sideways, forwards, backwards, the wide, promenade-like streets, the little bridges traversing the canals, public squares with their massive churches and government buildings.  It was all wonderful.  I really enjoyed seeing different architectural styles so close to one another.  On one block you would see a late Gothic church next to a French chateau and a minimalist flat.  The mansard roof was also a welcome sight.  When we went to Vondelpark in the southern part of the city, I was really impressed with its layout.   There were very wide bike paths all around – the park was very much focused on the bicyclist.  But there were still a lot of people walking around as well.  It was just a good mix of public activity.  Amsterdam was the first city I have seen while abroad where I would actually consider living (the numerous McDonald’s and abundant nightlife helped a little).  Amsterdam is doing something right.

I also visited Rotterdam while I was in the Netherlands.  Rotterdam is also very ahead of its time.  It had the same network of bike paths and tram lines that Amsterdam has, except to a greater extent.  Rotterdam’s Museumpark, while under construction, was shaping up to be an exceptional green space.  The Dutch architects have incredible planning abilities.  We visited the Cube House by Piet Blom.  I had seen this complex in slides my freshmen year.  The slides were very misleading.  I remember doubting that a complex of swiveled cubes would ever work as housing.  But when I got there and explored it my thoughts changed completely.  The cubes are all set above a road on trunk-like cores.  The housing is right next to a train station, so public transportation is easily accessible.  It reminded me of tree houses.  There were shops and other services at the base of most of the trunks.  It was the coolest mixed-use development I have ever seen. 

From the Netherlands I traveled to Prague, Czech Republic.  Prague was an entirely different environment.  While I would say that Amsterdam is almost the complete opposite of Rome (lots of new construction, wide streets, McDonald’s everywhere), Prague is its distant cousin.  It is a charming city.   There is something about its dirt-blackened statues and castles.  It was interesting to see public spaces like Old Town square and compare them to Roman spaces like Campo dei Fiori.  I noticed a difference in scale and also number.  Prague is also all about the details.  I tried to pay attention to every building I was passing (accentuated corners with sculpture, over-fenestration), but there was just too much of it.  I think that’s part of the allure of Prague.  All the details coming together in a beautiful jumble.  The first day we were there, we had drinks in Gehry’s Dancing House and got to watch the sunset over the Vltava River from the terrace on the 7th floor.  That was one of those moments where you go: “Wow.  What am I doing here?”  The Prague Castle and St. Vitus Cathedral were also amazing.  I have never seen stained glass so intricate.  Another highlight of the trip was stumbling upon a random park (which I later learned was Vojanovy sady), where we discovered a flock of peacocks.  It was so surprising to find this gem a few blocks away from the St. Charles Bridge.  But that embodies my experience of Prague.  Discovery of some of the most beautiful things I’ve ever seen and not knowing what they’re called. 

Prague also had very efficient public transportation.  The best part of the system was the streetcars.  The streetcars immediately made me realize what my hometown is missing.  In Saint Paul, there used to be a similar network of streetcars, much like the ones in Prague today.  Around the 1950s, car companies came and ripped up all the tracks to make way for the motor vehicles.  It’s all very ironic because nowadays they are building a light rail system due to traffic/green initiatives.  I can’t help but wonder what my city would have been like if the streetcars had not gone extinct.  And when I saw Prague’s system, I was struck with a picture of what might have been.  I would love to not have to own a car.  I would love to not have to pay for gas.  I would love not to support companies like BP and Chevron.  Prague showed me what direction Saint Paul should go in. 

When it came time to return to Rome, I was relieved.  Travelling takes a lot out of you, especially when it is to countries where the languages spoken are languages like Dutch and Czech.  But Spring Break was also a learning experience.  I saw the advantages that the cities have over my own, mainly transportation and green space.  I’m excited to take my experiences home with me and maybe change things.                                  

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